Official Luthiers Forum!

No way I could have done any better JJ.

What do you think about the oil finished neck? Is it smooth and not sticky. Does the oil harden enough to withstand ware? Does that take a lot of time and a lot of coats? Do you recommend a particular brand of oil?

TIA
John

Fantastic work JJ. Love the rosette and end graft.


Cheers

Bob

_________________

------------------------------------------------------
Bob Connor
Geelong, Australia

JJ, as the other half of the K-bros, let me also say that your work looks hard to beat.
I love that particular shape, and am pleased to find another 12-fret fan in our ranks.

Just a beautiful guitar, amigo.

Steve

_________________
From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

I'm partial to 12 fretters too, that's one beautiful guitar.. jack

JJ, bro, that is an absolute stunner!!!!

I love everything about it! The rosette, the sloted headstock, the beautiful bindings and of course, that crazy zoot!!!

Your finish look impecable as well! Everything about it is top drawer!!!

_________________
I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

John...it's too early for me to answer all of your questions on the oil treated necks. I've only been playing them for 2-3 days.

From the beginning,I personally did not like the feel of a lacquered neck. In my hands, it felt sticky after a period of time playing and I was constantly cleaning it with a damp, then dry rag. On my last guitar, I french polished the neck and I liked the feel. The downside was that it required periodic steel wool rubbing and re-application of shellac. Perhaps I could have built up a heavier layer...I'm still working on that one.

On this series of 3 guitars, I decided to use Watco Danish Oil (DO) because I loved the dry slippery feel that it left on a maple workbench I built a year earlier. On one of the necks, I pore filled with Zpoxy (ZP) and sanded most of it off (still a thin layer of ZP on the neck) and then applied several coats of DO. I felt that the oil was not penetrating the wood but staying on the ZP surface. But it definitely changed the "feel" of the neck so there must be some absorption. On the other 2 I did no pore filling and applied the DO as recommended by the manufacturer...wipe it on...wipe more on to keep the surface wet for 30 mnutes and then wipe it off. I repeated this for a total of 4 applications. I let it sit for 2 days between appications and then rubbed 0000 steel wool over the surface before applying the next coat. Those necks look and feel great now but only time will tell if they get sticky with age. The oil seems to have hardened the surface and the feel is dry and slippery as I had originally hoped. I have not yet evaluated the one with ZP prior to DO. I'll have that guitar completed in a month.

As far as a brand of finishing oil...I believe that most of the folks here recommend True Oil. It is also recommended by LMI. I regret not having used it on one of the necks as a basis for comparison. There is a recent thread that discusses this which may enlighten you more on the issue. Some of our members are also fine furniture makers and they gave some good info on True Oil.

I'll be sure to post mt thoughts as these necks get more playing time.

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

JJ, sorry bro I almost missed your thread and the loss would have been all mine.   

If there ever was a guitar posted here that’s an extension of the builder’s personality – this is the one. I see meticulous, tasteful, thoughtful and perseverance all wrapped up in a fine looking guitar. You honour Bob well.

Tricia says handsome just like JJ!   

I am really looking forward to playing this one.

That's a home run JJ. I want to see it next time you are through this way. Great job!

Super looking guitar JJ!
What do you think about the tuners? I just recently put some just like that on a "000" I finished. I just wasn't to impressed with the tuners. They didn't feel very smooth.

Lovely instrument, JJ! I'm sure it sounds great.

_________________
Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Thanks, guys!

Colby...I am more accustomed to Waverly but tried the Grover slotheads for the first time. While they aren't as nicely finished as the Waverly (faint parting line on the button), they seem to work just fine...mine are smooth turning with no sticking and have so far held tune as well as the Waverly.

I remember some folks reporting of quality problems with these tuners and you may possibly have gotten a questionable set. I'd recommend calling SM or Grover customer service to get a replacement set.

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

What can I say that hasn't already been said.  Beautiful guitar JJ.  I, personally, like the character on the top.

Kirby

JJ, you're barking with the big fish now!!! Very nice! I can see why you wanted to save that back--WOW!    It's also a portable billboard for Robbie's DVD. Well done!

Looks beautiful JJ...

"12 Fretters are my personal favorites and this one is very responsive to my style of play. "

What kind of music do you play?...rookie Question...is this body shape mostly for fingerpicking?

Curiuos...how wide in the neck at the nut?  Love the shape but having a difficult time trying to imagine the relative size of it ...any chance of posting a pic that would give me an idea of scale...say next to a Dread or OM..or heck..just post a pic of yourself with it...that would give me an idea...or maybe not...depending if your 6' 3'' ,260...or 5'3'' ,150   

 

Thanks..truely a beauty!!

Irwin...The width at the nut is 1.75" with 2.50" spacing at the bridge. The spacing is suited more for fingerstyle which is what I primarily play. It strums quite well and can also growel under the right hands.

12 Fretters are different animals. The main feature is the fact that the neck joins the body at the 12th fret. This allows the bridge to sit further back on the lower bout...right on the sweet spot, which theoretically makes it more responsive to a lighter string attack. It also requires lengthening of the body.

Here's an approximate dimensional comparison between a 000 vs. Martin Dred:

           000 vs Dred

LB        15" vs 16"
UB        10" vs 11.5"
Waist       9" vs 11"
LB Depth    4" vs 5"
UB Depth    3" vs 4"
Body Length 20.5" vs 20"

Check out the pic below for a comparison to a Martin D-35. As you can see, a much different guitar that serves a much different purpose. If you go to Martin's site, you can get even more details and comparisons.

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

   JJ your guitar looks so good. I hope you bring that one when you and RC get here
john

JJ,

Absolutely beautiful guitars!!!

Thank you for the side by side pic. I now have a good visual between the “Dreadnought” and “OOO”

BTW, is that a three piece back on the Dreadnought?

Robert

_________________
Everything has beauty, But, not everyone see's it!

[QUOTE=CarltonM] JJ, you're barking with the big fish now!!! QUOTE]

Thanks, Carlton...That could be one of my problems...I'm still not sure if I should be swimming with them, barking with them or lifting my leg on them!

Robert...The D-35 does indeed have a 3 piece back. I believe the model was introduced in order to use smaller pieces of BRW when it started becoming rare and coveted. Unfortunately, mine was built in 1970...a year after they went to IRW.

John...Can't wait to make the trip to your place and I'll bring both "Tippie" & "Zootman". I need a pic of you and Bob with your guitars.

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Thanks JJ..that's one sexy guitar!!!...

Wow, JJ, that's wonderful. Took me a while to check this thread, but it was worth the wait. It looks absolutely perfect from here.

Ron

_________________
OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

JJ ,sorry I saw this guitar so late in the post.I`m currently working on a 000 12 fret.Mad rose and Lutz spruce.What scale did you use?I`m thinking 24.9. Also I was wondering about the specs on your headstock.For example wow wide are the slots? She sure is beautiful.I`ll be pleased if mine looks half that good.
                                    James W B
                  

_________________
James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

James...this is my 2nd 000-12 that I built...both were 25.4" scale which I believe is the traditional length. Stewmac has a great set of plans. I recommend having them on hand. I followed them loosely on the first and made further mods on the 2nd.

The plan gives traditional dimensions. Here are some related to the headstock:

Peghead Thickness = 0.75" (including headplate)
Peghead End Width = 3.00"
Slot Width = 0.50"
Slot Length = 4.00" (before ramping)

One strong recommendation if you're planning to do slotheads. Go to Luthier Tool Company and check out the jig for drilling holes and routing the slots. I LOVE this jig and would not make a slothead without it. It's pricey but worth it...trust me! ...and I hate to BUY jigs and try to build as much as I can. This one is a rare exception.

Hope this helps...good luck!

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Thanks for the info JJ.
               James
            

_________________
James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Sorry I'm late to this thread. Beautiful guitar JJ!

_________________
Dave Rector
Rector Guitars